It turns out that Kill Devil Hills didn't exist in 1903. There was nothing there. The nearest town was Kitty Hawk, so that's what it was called.
No matter what you call it, the National Memorial is an inspiring site. The Brothers Wright - who started as bicycle mechanics - worked for years on this project. They needed a good place to test their theories, and Kitty Hawk won because of its ocean breezes.
A large sand dune overlooks the meadow. The Wright Brothers worked out some of the details with a glider pushed off the top of that dune. Once that was out of the way, they worked in sheds on the meadow - with the help of the people of the town. The first flight was on Dec. 17, 1903 and lasted only 12 seconds over 120 feet, but the airplane flew. It was the start of a new age.
It's inspiring just to walk up to the top of the dune, which has a giant monument to the accomplishment. It's also fun to walk where the actual first flights took place. On the other side of the hill is a sculpture (several, actually) of the dramatic moment of the initial journey. It was unveiled in 2003, the 100th anniversary of the flight. Yes, the Wrights remembered to bring a cameraman as a witness.
As of the spring of 2018, the remodeling of the Visitors Center was still in place. When it is done in a few months, it will be an even better place for a visit. But everyone will enjoy this - and it wouldn't hurt to read David McCullough's book on the subject before you go.
Here's the story in video form:
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