Buffalo, New York: TR Inaugural Site

It's a tradition for American Presidents to be sworn into office on the Capitol steps in Washington, D.C. However, there have been exceptions. Tragedies and other special circumstances have gotten in the way. President Lyndon Johnson took the oath of office on an airplane in Dallas; the vehicle became Air Force One once he was sworn in. Calvin Coolidge did some solemnly swearing that he defend the Constitution in the parlor of his home in Plymouth Notch, Vermont. Chester Arthur did the same in his New York City home after James Garfield died. Naturally, some Presidents took the oath before the Capital was built.

That leaves one President left - Teddy Roosevelt. You probably know the story if you've studied a little American History. President William McKinley was shot at the Pan-American Exhibition in Buffalo in 1901. He lingered for a while, and perhaps might have survived the assassination had he been shot in the exact same way some years later when medical advances had arrived, but he didn't make it. 

Vice President Roosevelt already had been to the exhibition earlier that month, and was in the Adirondacks of New York State when he received the news about McKinley's death. It wasn't easy to get from there to Buffalo back then, but he eventually he made it. Upon arrival, he was sworn in as President in the parlor of the Wilcox Mansion in Buffalo. 

Happily, you can still see what the place looked like when TR was "promoted." The photo is very close to what you might have seen in that same room in 1901. The house has been restored and became a National Historic Site in 1966. It is now run by the National Park Service. 

Happily, the NPS has made some improvements into the area. In particular, a hologram of Teddy now rests in an upstairs room. You can ask any question of President Roosevelt, and he'll answer you in good humor. He even had some nice things to say about William Howard Taft and Charles Evans Hughes, and was happy that his charge up San Juan Hill in the Spanish-American War was well remembered.

One catch - visitors are told to arrive at specific times (usually the bottom of the hour) for guided tours. You can take your time looking around the upstairs area once the formal tour is over.  

Chobe National Park, Botswana

We might have saved the best for last on our trip to Africa. Chobe National Park is an amazing place - a huge space filled with wildlife. For example, if you don't see an elephant while you there, you just aren't trying. The same could be said for impalas; they fill up the field in this photo. At times it seems like a new sighting lurks around every corner. 

The idea to make the land in this part of the world a national park was raised in 1931. They made it a non-hunting area in 1932, and expanded the territory a couple of years later. Chobe Game Reserve was created in 1960, and it graduated to national park status in 1968. It took a little time to get human activity, such as the timber industry, out of the area, but the job was finalized in 1975.  

The only warning about such a trip involves the roads. Those who travel the grounds in a 4X4 should know that the roads aren't exactly smooth. OK, they are very, very bumpy. There is some serious bouncing around, particularly if the driver is in a hurry to get somewhere (walkie-talkies are used to spread information about an animal that appears near a road.) So put on a seat belt, and hold on. 

Kasane, Botswana: Chobe River Cruise

River cruises can be a good, easy and intimate way of exploring natural surroundings. It's particularly true for the Chobe River, located in Botswana. It explores the edge of Chobe National Park, and the river attracts all sorts of creatures to its shores. 

Most of the cruises start in Kasane, located near the border with Zimbabwe. After boarding, the boat heads up river and eventually checks in at the boundary of Chobe National Park. That's essentially where the best parts begin. You'll be able to see wildlife while sipping on a beverage, which is a good way to practice tourism - especially if you aren't driving. 

When we were there in August, there were some islands in the middle of the river. As you can see in the photo, a large colony of elephants hangs out there. I'm not sure if they spent most of their time there or were just visiting for a while. Still, it's quite a sight. Hippos and crocodiles hang out close to the shore, and impalas run around the area as well. 

By the way, this region is known for malaria. It's less of a problem in the winter, but checking out the medical options before visiting is a good idea.  

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: International Bridge

Victoria Falls represents a huge obstacle when it comes to moving people and products from one side of the river to the other. To compensate, a bridge was built a bit down river from the falls to connect what later turned out to be the cities of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and Livingstone, Zambia. It's even an attractive bridge that fits in with the surroundings smartly. 

The bridge was constructed in England in the early 1900s, and designed to be part of a railroad that ran from Cairo to Cape Town.  From there, everything was shipped to the site, and put together in a mere 14 months. It opened for business in 1905. The bridge received a grand opening ceremony featuring Sir George Darwin, the son of Charles. 

This bridge represents the only rail connection between the two countries, and is one of only three roads tying Zimbabwe and Zambia together. Tours are available. For those who have an interest in such things, you can walk across the bridge. But there is a charge for a visa, and there's other paperwork involved. Keep that in mind before you decide to add to your list of countries visited. 

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

How do you like your waterfalls? The obvious starting point to a discussion about Victoria Falls is to compare the site with a distant relative: Niagara Falls, which is well known to North American audiences. 

Victoria Falls is twice as tall as its counterpart in the West, and it is twice as wide. The African water seems to be spilling over a wide delta of sorts. It takes quite a while to see it all. Niagara Falls is more concentrated and powerful, so seeing the rush of water over the rocks is quite intense. They are both exciting to see in different ways. 

One other difference - there is virtually no economic development around Victoria Falls. It's a rain forest with trails for visitors. That is not the way Niagara Falls does it, to put it mildly. To each its own.  

Victoria Falls is considered to be the waterfall that produces the largest sheet of water in the world. It's worth noting that the water levels change during the course of the year. We saw it in early August, and there was enough water falling to create a mist that obscured the bottom of the falls. A few months ago, that wasn't the case. It's partly on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, although we stayed on the Zimbabwe side.  

By the way, you can see the mist from Victoria Falls over long distances when cruising on the Zambezi River.  

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: Livingstone Statue

There's a bit of a walk from the main gate to Victoria Falls, and it goes through a dense rain forest. Before seeing the actual water passing over the rocks, though, most tourists notice a statue close to the edge. It is indeed David Livingstone, missionary and explorer. The statue comes with a short explanation of his exploits in the region. 

Livingstone turned up here in 1855, and wrote down his thoughts upon seeing the waterfall for the first time. He even named the falls after Queen Victoria, the boss back home. He wasn't the first person to see the falls, of course. Nowadays, we'd say it takes a little nerve to claim the naming rights like that - for reference, see Mount McKinley in Alaska. But the name has lasted.  

There are those in Zimbabwe who aren't thrilled about such a large reminder of the colonial days involving Great Britain. Zambia was willing to take the statue off Zimbabwe's hands. But inertia is a powerful force of nature, and the object remains in place a handful of feet from the water.  

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: Zambezi River

A trip on the Zambezi River is a good way to be introduced to this part of south-central Africa. After all, it's the river that goes over Victoria Falls in a violent way. 

This is the fourth-longest river in Africa, checking in at about 1,600 miles. The Zambezi is the longest river on the continent that runs to the East, as it empties into the Indian Ocean in Madagascar. It starts in Zambia; the area around it is a national park. From there it winds through a series of countries as it flows downhill. There are a couple of other waterfalls along the way, and there are two dams as well that provide power for the region. 

Any discussion of the Zambesi should include hippos. There are a lot of them, and seeing them is a highlight of the cruise. Just don't expect too much energy; this guy seems a bit tired.

  

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe: The Big Tree

This is a big tree. No wonder it is called "The Big Tree."

This is a baobab tree that is located to Victoria Falls. It is said to be 73 feet around and 79 feet high. That sounds big enough.  

It's tough to know how old this tree is, but guesses have gone as high as 2,000 years old. Others have suggested that this is actually three trees that are intertwined, and thus a bit younger. No one wants to chop it down and check, and in the end it doesn't matter much.  

It's certainly possible that explorer David Livingstone saw this tree. He popped up in 1854 and was the first European to see the falls. Since the tree is only a mile or so away, a bump between the two might have happened.

By the way, there is a nice mushroom-shaped tree just down the street; the area has a bunch of them. They look great outlined against the sky.  

Johannesburg, South Africa

If South Africa is to build up a strong economy that ripples prosperity throughout the country, Johannesburg will lead the way there. 

It's becoming a major economic engine for all of Africa. Indeed, it's achieved the status as the financial capital of the continent. They call it the "City of Gold," and not just because of mining in the region. The architecture of the main business district is particularly striking. Take a look at this building called "The Marc," which is in the Sandton part of town. It's the home of some top businesses in the region, and of the largest stock exchange on the continent. Some call it the "Pineapple."

As of 2022, the population of Johannesburg was close to five million people. However, the population of the region is around 15 million. The area between the city and Pretoria used to be open space. Soon it will be completely filled in one huge city-region.

Johannesburg has problems, particularly as of late. The city seems to have been badly managed in some areas, and the infrastructure isn't doing well. Crime has become a particular problem, especially at night. It is going to be a bumpy ride for Johannesburg, but we're rooting for a happy ending. 

Johannesburg, South Africa; Apartheid Museum

It's been more than 30 years since apartheid was no longer the law of the land in South Africa. It's still a nightmare for those old enough to remember it, but that number shrinks every day. It's good to make sure that young people learn the lessons taught about that experience. 

The Apartheid Museum is a response to that. It opened up in 2001, and offers some powerful lessons on the subject. The opening is particularly powerful. Patrons are given a ticket with a particular race at random - regardless of their actual background. So whites could enter the door for non-whites, and non-whites can go in the door for whites. It's all by chance. Your treatment while inside depends on which door you walk through. 

It's all well done with plenty of detail. That makes this complex the top authority of its kind on the subject. The amount of time spent there probably depends on how much interest you have in the subject ... and how much time the guide allows you to have. But it's nice to see this remain operating and vital a quarter-century after opening.

Johannesberg, South Africa: Hector Pieterson Memorial

The fight against apartheid in South Africa was a long and difficult one, and it's a bit difficult for an outsider such as a tourist to know everything that went on along the way. But the story of Hector Pieterson is an important one. 

It was June 16, 1976. He was a 12-year-old who was protesting the use of Afrikaans in school, a language that was mostly used by white and colored (meaning mixed in this case) students. Some blacks wanted the teachers to switch to their native languages. In the midst of a large demonstration, dogs attacked the 10,000 protesters and tear gas was used on them. In the confusion after that, shots were fired at the mostly young crowd. Pieterson was one of ten to die. A photo journalist snapped a shot of Pieterson as a friend carried him toward help while his sister accompanied them. It became a famous symbol for the resistance at the time. Pieterson soon was pronounced dead.

A memorial was set up to Pieterson only a couple of blocks from the shooting site. It was particularly touching to stand by that memorial and hear sister Antoinette tell our group about the events of that day - 50 years later. It made the history come alive. A museum is located nearby, and Antoinette works there as a tour guide. 

Johannesburg, South Africa: Mandela House

The guess here is that 8115 Vilakazi Street has become one of the most famous addresses in South Africa. It's connected with Soweto, a township that saw more than its share of difficulties in regard to race relations over the years. The key is who lived there: Nelson Mandela and family. They were there from 1946 to 1962, when Mandela went off to jail. (He returned in 1990 when he was released, but only stayed for less than two weeks.)

The building has been turned into something of a shrine and museum for Mandela. It's a modest place, with some of the original furniture still around. If you look carefully, you still see some bullet holes and scorch marks from fires left over from earlier times. The walls have a variety of memorabilia and tributes on them. Mandela donated the place to the Soweto Historical Trust in 1997.  It went through a major renovation about a dozen years later, and tours (and accompanying guides) were soon added.

This is a rather nice neighborhood by historical standards, since Bishop Desmond Tutu lived nearby. How many neighborhoods have two Nobel Peace Prize winners?

Johannesburg, South Africa: Orlando Towers

What's all of that artwork doing on the cooling towers at Three Mile Island? 

That particular nuclear site came to mind when we approached the facility in Johannesburg. A little research showed that this actually had something to do with coal. The towers were part of a coal-burning project that opened in 1942. Eventually, the facility was closed, and a decision was made to use it differently. 

As we moved even closer, we could see a connecting bridge between the two towers. Yes, it was set up for bungee jumping. Sure enough, we saw someone go for a ride in a bit of good timing. That is only part of the story, as other extreme sports are staged there as it became something of a headquarters for activities that were a bit out of the ordinary. 

The building is located in Soweto, a township in Johannesburg. You can see it coming from a distance, thanks to the paint jobs on the sides of the towers. 

Looks like the recycling project, which must have seemed unlikely at first, has turned out pretty well.   

Johannesburg, South Africa: Nelson Mandela Square

It must have seemed like an overwhelming concept. How should the city of Johannesburg honor Nelson Mandela, the modern equivalent in South Africa to out George Washington? Mandela was the key figure in the fight to end apartheid, and deserved something special. 

It's fair to say that Johannesburg came through. Nelson Mandela Square is located in the middle of the Sandton district, and it's a powerful statement. Mandela received the statue treatment, a 19-footer at one end of the square. You can see him looking over the area and the country in the bottom left. The statue is surrounded by other pieces of artwork, while the square has such outlets as restaurants and the visitors center.  

Even better, it is attached to one of the biggest shopping centers in all of Africa. The designer stores are out in force there, as they are part of the more than 400 merchants in the area. You could spend a couple of days there and not get bored (happily, a hotel is located in the complex so you can get a little rest). This area was renamed for Mandela in 2004 after a 1994 opening. Some argued that maybe this was a little too high-brow of a spot to honor a populist leader. Organizers through it represented a success story for the country, part of an optimistic approach to development. You're on your own here. 

Kruger National Park, South Africa

It's morning again in Kruger National Park in northeastern South Africa. Based on the photo, it looks like it's going to be another nice day - and one full of wonders.

This is a big park - more than 7,500 square miles. It's justifiably famous as one of the great places on earth to see wildlife. No wonder more than two million people a year do exactly that.  

South Africa might have been ahead of its time on this one. A bunch of farmers got together in 1867 and tried to keep hunters off their combined lands. It formally became a game reserve in 1898, thanks to the work of South African President Paul Kruger. Several areas - two reserves and some farmland - were put together in 1926 to create a national park. Kruger's name became associated with it at that point.  

Patience is needed for a place like this. You might tour the grounds on a jeep for an hour without seeing much. Then a group of animals might appear that leaves everyone in awe. I've used the animals' images from here in other postings, but it's better than that. Here's a video about the place.

Ngwenya, Eswatini: Ngwenya Glass

There wasn't too much sight-seeing in Eswatini during our trip. We essentially drove through the country to be in position to be at a national park in South Africa the next day. That didn't allow for much time to see what was available. And to be honest, the pickings seemed rather slim. The mountains looked nice, and there were some national parks and game reserves said to be around. But it wasn't on the itinerary. 

There was a glass-blowing factory on the way though - as unlikely as that sounds. The Ngwenya Glass Company bills itself as Eswatini's hottest tourist attraction, and there's no reason to doubt that claim. Artisans work in a good-sized area in which they work with recycled glass to create new objects. Better still, there is a platform above the work floor so that tourists can watch the process take place. The craftsmanship is nice, and we saw some sales in the gift shop later.   

The outside area has a few treats too. Some peacocks are running around the grounds for entertainment, and some other shops are located in the complex. I always wonder if companies "recruit" tour groups to make a stop in such circumstances, but our passengers seemed to be happy to look around. Any entertainment away from the bus is good. 

If you had heard of Eswatini before this point, you were one step ahead of me. It used to be Swaziland, but changed its name in 2018. The country is run by King Mswati III, who has been on the job since 1986. He's the last King in Africa, and he doesn't seem to be spending the government's money on, say, garbage removal. It's a very poor country by any standard, and a little depressing to visit - although I will say the native residents couldn't have been nicer in our brief encounters while passing through.   

Let's stick to the glass-blowing in the video: 

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa: Hluhluwe–Imfolozi Park

This is not the time to try to figure out how to say the name of this attraction. Let's just learn about it instead.

This area has been a nature reserve since 1895, although it became a park relatively recently. The Big Five animals of the region can be found here - lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes and hippos. It's about 50 miles by 13 miles, so there's lot of room for everyone. 

There are advantages and disadvantages for timing a visit. We went in the middle of winter, which meant that the vegetation level was relatively low. That in turn made it easier to spot animals when we went looking for them early one morning. The summer does have more birds entering the area via migration, and more babies arriving on the scene. 

We did get a look at a couple of lions during our visit. But they didn't exactly pose for photos. 

The videos of this place tend to be long, but might be of interest.

St. Lucia, South Africa: St. Lucia Estuary

This is one of the largest estuaries in Africa, and it offers some nice treats for visitors. The region covers about 1,200 square miles, and has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The hippos are something of the stars of the show here. There are about 800 of them roaming around. Chances are probably pretty good that if you take a boat ride on the lake, you'll see some around the shore. Hippos usually spend their nights on the grasslands, and then leave the "remains" of their meal in the lake ... which actually adds nutrients into the ecosystem. They didn't exactly come charging out to welcome us when we drifted by their hangout. 

Crocodiles also are very common in the area. You might want to think twice about taking a dip in the water as a result.  

 

Simon's Town, South Africa: Boulders Beach

Who doesn't love penguins? No one. That's why big crowds pop up at Boulders Beach, not far from Cape Town, to see these cute animals frolicking on the sand in large numbers.

There's a good story to this attraction. The population of African penguins has been in decline for some time, and the experts decided to start a colony with two breeding couples in 1982. Here we are, 44 years later, and the penguin population has reached 3,000. That's pretty impressive. The birds hang out in this protected area. Meanwhile, tourists walk on a raised sidewalk on the shore for good looks at them. During our stay there were bunches of them (penguins, that is) scattered in the area. 

Boulders Beach really is located between some boulders. It has been ranked as high as No. 2 on the list of the world's great beaches. The penguins, of course, are a reason why. They are still endangered due to a variety of reasons, such environmental develops and commercial fishing. 

Simon's Town is associated with the Navy. The British set up a base there first, and South Africa eventually took the spot over. Now the penguins are doing the same. 

Cape Point, South Africa

The geography gets a bit confusing in this part of the world. Cape Point has a nice view of the Cape of Good Hope along the shoreline, but that really isn't the southern end of Africa. That title is designated for a piece of land about 100 miles to the east.

But ... Cape Point is the spot where the Atlantic Ocean becomes the Indian Ocean, or vice-versa - at least most of the time. The currents of the oceans change a bit during the course of the year, so there's no definite line between the two of them. Got that?

And Cape Point is what you might expect from something of a geographic landmark. There is a parking lot at the base of the hill, and a couple of stores for souvenirs. A train goes up to the hill in order to read the top of the overlook, although it was under repair during our stay. (A small bus was pressed into service for that duty, although the hardy souls walked up the steep hill.)

Upon arriving, visitors were greeting with some great views of the area. They even could take a look at the lighthouse, which stands guard over the shoreline.