Athens, Greece

It takes a little time to warm up to Athens.

The capital of Greece is sprawling and crowded. More than 3 million people live in in the vicinity. The driving is difficult - remember, there are some ancient streets hanging around on the grid - and the graffiti is terrible. The roads aren't great, and visitors trip on the sidewalks constantly (at least I did). Zoning is not one of the priorities. 

Yet, the attraction is undeniable. Athens is clearly one of the cradles of democracy. There are centuries of history on display, and even more worlds beneath your feet.  There's a certain energy to the place that can almost be felt. You might see a demonstration in one corner of the city, and then see a brass band parading down a pedestrian walk a moment later. 

Everyone should visit there if they have the chance, if only to see the beginnings of Western Civilization. 

Athens, Greece: Erechtheion

The Parthenon at the top of Acropolis has a neighbor.

It's the Erechtheion, a temple located on the other side of the hill from its Big Brother. This is basically known for its six unusual columns. They are designed in the shape of women. No wonder that area is called "The Porch of the Maidens." The columns are copies right now. The originals are split between the British Museum in London and the Acropolis Museum in Athens. You'd think they ought to be together. 

This building was finished in 406 BC and was designed as a replacement for another temple on the grounds. It's gone through a lot over the years. The building was burned after about 300 years of use, and it has served a great many functions depending on who was in charge at the time. Now, it is a major tourist attraction. The place went through a major revamping in the 1980s or so, the first building on the Acropolis to go through that. The restoration received high marks from everyone.  

Athens, Greece: Parthenon

You've heard about the Parthenon forever, but standing next to it is still amazing. 

It's the most famous building from Ancient Greece for a reason. It's just so striking how big it is. I'm not saying the NBA could put a franchise in there, but it's still bigger than most of the buildings in our daily lives. It raises the question, "How did they do it?"

This was built between 447 and 438 BC, and was something of a victory lap for Athens. They were fresh off a military win over the invaders from Persian, and needed a way to thank the gods. It has become a symbol of democracy as well as of Greece at that time and place.

As you can imagine, most people now won't be visiting when there is no scaffolding in place. That's essentially a full-time job. When one section is done, the next needs repair. And so on. But it's still a thrill to see it in person, and we can only hope many more people will have that feeling in years to come. 

Athens, Greece: Propylaea

Most people who reach the top of the Acropolis are expecting some sort of grand entrance, considering how famous the place is. They aren't disappointed.

The Propvlaea served that purpose nicely. It was built between 437 and 432 BC. The best way to the top of the mountain was at one end; the other was too steep. The gate went in the flatter area. There were five entrances when the area first opened, with some dedicated to wheeled traffic. The gate was used as something of a checkpoint, although all were welcome. 

The funny part is that no matter how good this may look now (considering its age), it was never finished. The Peloponnesian War broke out, and suddenly a gate didn't seem too important.  

Thanks to restoration work, you can still walk through the gate today. It's still a thrill, as it might have been more than 2,000 years ago. 

Athens, Greece: Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Wow. This facility certainly jumps out at the visitor. 

Herodes Atticus had some extra cash in the bank around 160 AD, and decided to make a commitment to the culture of the community. He paid for the construction of a theater, as a tribute to his late wife. The initial project also had a roof, but that was burned by the invading barbarians in 267. (Darn barbarians.)

The Acropolis is a great place for a theater. The acoustics are wonderful, in that the audience can hear sounds on the stage perfectly. The building could hold 5,000 people. 

Happily, the theater is still in use today for concerts. Frank Sinatra even played there once. It's hard to grasp the idea that you could watch a classic Greek play today in this setting, which is as one of the best-preserved facilities of its kind in the world. Yet, it happens.