Toledo, Spain

Toledo used to be a very important city in this part of the world. It was the site of a battle involving the Romans in 193 BCE, and they went on to have a strong influence on the area in building it up. In fact, they built some of the walls that are in view today. 

From there, Toledo went through various invasions and upheavals too complicated to explain here. No matter what, though, its location in the middle of the peninsula by a river was a selling point. The most important parts of the city were built on a steep hill behind walls. As these things go, it was a relatively safe spot. No wonder the city's wealthiest citizens lived there. 

Once matters settled down in Toledo and the capital was moved to nearby Madrid, it became known for its history. UNESCO designated it as a World Heritage Site. Even so, it's still alive - based on all the shops that cater to tourists within those walls. People still live there now; I hear it's pricey.

You can see Alcazar - a stone building on top of the hill - in this photo.  It was a stone palace used by the Romans in the third century. It was also the site of an intense battle during the Spanish Civil War.

By the way, Toledo has several sister cities around the world - including, of course, Toledo, Ohio. 

 

Toledo, Spain: Saint Martin's Bridge

When you living in a walled city, you want the few entrances to be well fortified. The Saint Martin's Bridge in Toledo certainly qualifies. 

It was built in the late 1300s to provide access from the west; the east side already had an entrance. This one crosses the Tagus River, which offers an additional level of protection for the city. There are five arches in all, and the middle one measures at 40 meters - which by the standards of the day was extraordinary. 

Not surprisingly, this was labeled as a National Monument in 1921. The views of it are terrific, and the views from it are terrific. In other words, a photographer's dream. So take a minute, literally, and look around:

Toledo, Spain: Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca

This is an interesting building, one that carries with it a great deal of history. We'll get to a little of that in a moment, but the story starts with one fact. This is the oldest building in Europe that was once a synagogue. That makes this worth a stop.

It was built as a synagogue in the late 1100s or early 1200s or. so. It stayed that way for about two hundred years, when it became a Catholic church. The Massacre of 1391 was an outbreak of lethal violence against the Jews of Spain - one of the worst ever. Eventually the facility found some other uses - military barracks, warehouse and dance hall. In 1856 the place became a historic landmark, and it is a tourist attraction and museum today. 

There's not much to see once inside, as there are no relics that aren't part of structure of the building. Nevertheless, it's quite interesting to contemplate the building's past while spending a few minutes inside. 

 

Toledo, Spain: The Burial of the Count of Orgaz

As a tourist attraction, the Iglesia de Santo Tomé is a little odd. It's basically famous for one item: a painting that is hung near the entrance to the church. 

But what a painting. "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz" was done way back in 1586 by El Greco, a famous painter and sculptor of the day. It's considered one of the great masterpieces of its time, so of course you're going to see it if you have the chance. The lines are rather long and the people can be pushy, but it's worth it.

The idea behind the painting is that the Count of Orgaz (he also was the mayor) died in 1323, more or less. Saint Stephen and Saint Augustine supposedly came down from heaven to personally bury the Count. Onlookers were said to be mesmerized by this miracle. 

The painting is said to be split into two sides, with the top representing heaven and the bottom the earth. The "contents" of the work were the subject of a contract between El Greco and the Church, with many shown items specifically spelled out in writing.

Albert Einstein once said that it was "among the profoundest images I have ever seen." If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me.  

Toledo, Spain: Primatial Cathedral of Saint Mary

Since Toledo is a walled area, space is at something of a premium. So when a typically grand cathedral was built for the city, it had to be sort of squeezed into the layout. It's tough to get the Primatial Cathedral of Saint Mary into one photo, but I did my best.

This is considered to be one of the great Gothic cathedrals in Spain, and it took a while to build. The facility was started in 1226, and it was finished in 1493 - the year after that famous first trip by Columbus. There are the usual fine pieces of artwork scattered around the building, and the bodies of some leaders are kept here.

If Rick Steves was impressed by the place, you probably will be too.