Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Monaco

Here's my favorite fact about Monaco, the tiny nation tucked along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea: It has more people in its Philharmonic orchestra (100) than in its army (80). Thank you, Rick Steves, for that.

Monaco is unique. It is carved out of the hills that drop dramatically into the ocean. Land is at a premium in the entire region, but when the entire country is three-quarters of a square mile, well, it can get crowded. Monaco has done some projects involving landfill, but still real estate is mighty, mighty expensive. There's no income tax here, so some of the rich and famous have a residence here.

The photo here shows the main region of Monaco; to the west (on the other side of the royal palace and other attractions) is the rest of the country. Monte Carlo is the name of one of those regions; it's not a separate city. That's where Monaco's famous casino is, where people go to "break the bank at Monte Carlo." By the way, you need to be well-dressed and pay an admission fee just to get in the door of the casino.

Monaco's big sporting event is the Grand Prix, held in May. The course was set up during our visit, and you can imagine what it does to the country - makes a crowded country even more cramped.

A visit is something like going to Disneyland - it's almost like someone made it up. But Monaco is very real, and certainly worth a stop. Here's a look around by the experts:



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Monaco: Dr. Schweitzer Statue

This was, um, unexpected.

There's no doubt that Albert Schweitzer accomplished a great deal of good in his long life. He's been called a theologian, philosopher, and physician. Dr. Schweitzer is closely associated with his missionary work in Africa. The body of work led to him receiving the Nobel Peace Prize in 1952.

I could not find any sign of a connection to Monaco. Yet, this monument pays tribute to his work. I guess any sort of salute to someone labeled "the greatest Christian of his time" is welcome.

By the way, Schweitzer is buried in Gabon, where he had set up a hospital.

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Monaco: Place du Palais

A visit to the plaza right outside the royal palace in Monaco starts with a tribute to one of the building's former occupants. It is a salute to Prince Albert I for his 25 years of rule, a time when Monaco made some great strides as a nation. He was well known for his attempts to prevent World War I from starting.

The statue portrays a woman with a fishing net, saluting his love of the sea. The Prince's tribute is in a great spot, as it only takes a few steps for a perfect view of Port Hercule below.

The Place du Palais is used for a variety of public events. However, it is well known as the place where the changing of the guard takes place at 11:55 each morning. If you like this sort of ceremony, get there a little early for a good spot.

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Monaco: Prince's Palace

The Grimaldi family first took control of Monaco in 1297, and they have been in charge ever since. That's a 700-plus year run, and the interesting part is that the family always has lived in the same spot.

Land, naturally, is at a premium in Monaco, a country that's less than a square mile in size. So the family has been forced to renovate, rather than start over as other royal families have done in other countries over the years.

While there are ceremonial functions, this is a working palace and the royal family has some influence in the country's day-to-day operations. It's all something of an accident of history that this little country has survived so long. It's also rather high on the cool meter.

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Monaco: Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate

You can't beat the location for this cathedral. It's located on the hill overlooking the city, right between the Royal Palace and the Oceanography Museum.

This has been the site of a church for almost 800 years. The current structure opened 1911. It might be best known as the burial site for the Grimaldis, the royal family of Monaco. That means Grace Kelly, the actress turned princess, is buried here.

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Monaco: Oceanographic Museum

Prince Albert I of Monaco was very enthusiastic when it came to studying the seas. Therefore, it was a natural for him to start an Oceanographic Museum, which opened in 1910. It still stands on the cliffs of the country today.

You should know that Jacques Cousteau, he of television fame, was the director of the Museum for more than 30 years. You also should know that while there are all sorts of exhibits, most of it is not in English for portions of it. To be fair, descriptions of species that are on display are said to be covered well in English.

As for the building, it is 279 feet above the sea, and 100,000 tons of stone to build. Very impressive.

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Tuesday, May 21, 2019

Nice, France

If Nice doesn't have the most spectacular waterfront in the world, I'd like to see a better one.

The bay is a half-moon shape. Due to the mineral content in the water, part of the bay reflects an aqua color. The photo gets that idea across.

Nice has a nice long pedestrian area next to the rocky beach, perfect for walks and - in the lanes - bicycling. Part of this was the area that a terrorist struck some years ago; construction on a barrier between the street and the sidewalk was underway during our 2019 visit.

Just beyond that street is a series of fabulous hotels and business outlets, where the rich and famous visit. "The Promenade des Anglais" is world-famous, and deservedly so.

And then you realize that this is the French Riviera, and it's one of the great "playgrounds" on earth - for good reason.

Whatever your expectations of Nice were upon arrival, they will be exceeded. Here's a video look at the city:



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Nice, France: War Memorial

This war memorial, located right along the waterfront in Nice, was something of a work in progress. They had to keep adding to it.

The monument was first opened in 1928, to salute the 4,000 residents of Nice who were killed in World War II. Marshal Foch, a WWI hero, was present at the dedication. Many more people died in World War II, of course, so they had to be added.

But France's military activities didn't end there in the 20th century. The nation suffered losses in Vietnam and Algeria, and they are noted here too.

It is considered one of the best memorials of its kind in France.

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Nice, France: Lycee Massena

This looks like a tourist attraction or a museum or something. It's not. It's a high school.

Pretty nice, as these things go.

Lycee Massena used to be a convent starting in 1623. But it became a school after the French Revolution, and has gone through a variety of structural changes over the years.

One story - just after D-Day, five high school students dropped out to fight for France. They were captured by the Gestapo and shot on June 11, 1944. They mark the event once every year in the school playground.

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Nice, France: La Tete Carrée Library

It's not the best photo you'll ever see of this building, thanks to the fact it was taken through a pane of glass on a small sightseeing train.

Then again, who can resist?

It's the Nice Public Library, and the architecture involved is called "Thinking Inside the Box." This stands 85 feet high, and the idea is to combine art and education.

Opinions differed on how well this worked. But one thing is certain - it got noticed.

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Nice, France: Monument du Centenaire

This one is right along the waterfront of Nice.You've probably guessed its purpose by the title.

Indeed, it celebrates the 100th anniversary of Nice's inclusion into France. That moment came in 1793, but it took an extra three years to get everything done. So this became part of the landscape in 1896. The top is a winged symbol that swears allegiance to France.

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Nice, France: Neuf Lignes Obliques

It's not easy to figure out what this is when visiting the waterfront in Nice. But I tracked it down.

It's a sculpture that dates back to 2010. That marked the 150th anniversary of the year where Nice became part of France. There are nine beams of steel in the structure, symbolizing the nine valleys of Nice as well as the surrounding mountains.

If nothing else, it catches your eye when you are in the neighborhood.

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Nice, France: Apollo statue in Place Massena

Now THIS is a story about Nice that you need to read.

Say hello to Apollo in Place Massena, the biggest town square in Nice. The statue made its debut in 1956, and it caused something of a scandal. It seemed that the private parts of this naked figure were a little too big for some tastes at the time. Remember, it's a 21-foot statue, so everything about Apollo is big.

Nice's leaders called in the sculptor, and Apollo's features were, um reduced. No word on how much it hurt.

That wasn't enough to satisfy some people, as the League of Feminine Virtue succeeded in 1979 in putting the statue out to pasture, so to speak. Apollo moved to a football stadium in North Nice - out of sight, out of mind.

Fast forward about 15 years, when a reporter did a "where are they now?" story on Apollo. Place Massena was a mess due to construction at that point, and suddenly a groundswell took place to bring back Apollo. When everything was done, Apollo was back in his usual spot, keeping an eye on the population. He has stayed there until this day.

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Draguignan, France: Rhone American Cemetery

If you know anything about history, you know how the Allies landed on the beaches of Normandy, France, on June 6, 1944. It was D-Day, and the liberation of the European continent was about to begin.

Less well known is the fact that the Allies also invaded in Southern France. American and French forces came in the back door, so to speak, and swept up toward points north. The idea was to keep the Germans occupied in the south so they couldn't help defend the north.

There were casualties, of course. The American military gave the families of the deceased a choice: The dead could be buried in a military cemetery forever, or the remains could be sent home. But the decision had to be final; changes were not allowed.

A total of 868 dead servicemen are buried in the Rhone American Cemetery, located a handful of miles inland from the sea. These facilities are scattered around the world, and this is the smallest of them. The memorial also pays tribute to the 294 people who were missing in action.

During our hour-long visit, the commander of the cemetery told us stories about the people who are buried there while showing us the grounds. It's a first-class job by all concerned.

Everyone loved the story about the woman who had lost her boyfriend in the invasion. My friend Beth, who was part of tour group, told it this way on Facebook: "She went on to live a life when she came across her old diary and got grandchildren to her to find out what had happened to him. She called someone with that name and said she was an old friend of Wade, “You can’t be Christina?” How did you know, she said. "You were the only one he ever talked about in his letters," they told her, "but we didn’t ever know how to contact you." So now - in her 90s - Christina has come to the cemetery every year for the last several years, where she sits by the grave and talks to Wade. She plans to come again this August."

Yes, many would like to see more of this:

 

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Camargue, France: Manade Laurent

(Imagine the sound of a bull calling as background noise here.)

Welcome to the Camargue, which is something of the delta region of the Rhone River in Southern France. Here the Laurent family continues a tradition that dates back to 1944 - raising bulls.

This part of the world is more influenced than you'd think by other countries. In this case, the concept of bullfighting has been borrowed from the Spanish and slightly adapted. Bullfighters must try to take a ribbon off the bull to score points. Usually it's the human that gets hurt in this exercise, and not the bull.

And you need bulls for this, which is where the Laurents come in. Their superstar was called Goya, to the point where the bull has his own gravestone on the ranch. The family sometimes takes time out from ranching to give tours to visitors. When the Laurents ride together on beautiful horses to talk to the tourists, it feels like everyone should be humming the theme from Bonanza. And if you ever need someone who personifies the look of a cowboy, Henri Laurent is that person.

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Arles, France: Pont aux Lions'

Talk about a bridge to nowhere.

The photo to the right obviously is the entrance to a bridge. If you stand on the plaza overlooking the water, you can see some abutments sticking out of the water and leading the eye to the other side. But where's the bridge?

Yes, it comes with a story. The railroad bridge was first constructed in 1868. It lasted until August 6, 1944, and you can take a good guess at what happened. The Allies were in the process of driving the Germans out of France, and they bombed the bridge to make the Nazi escape a little more difficult.

The lions were restored to their former glory in 2008, and it adds a nice sight to the riverfront. I'm not so sure about the abutments in the water, but it's not my decision to keep them.

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Arles, France: Roman Theater

Sometimes a lifetime can be a blink. At least that's the feeling that comes with standing on the stage of a theater that dates back a couple of thousand years.

This dates back to Augustus in the Roman Empire, and the facility used to sit 8,000 in 33 rows. (People were smaller then.) When the Romans left, some of the material was used to build a wall around the city. There are only two columns left, but they are mighty impressive as they guard the back of the stage. Some of the items that were found during excavation of the theater can be found at the nearby "Museum of Antiquity."


This facility is still used as well, although some of the rows are gone. Light and sound equipment have been added to the theater, so I guess you could say a visit for a performance isn't completely authentic, but who cares.

Here's a full look around:



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Arles, France: Amphitheater

The Buffalo Bills in 2019 were making plans to build a new stadium. After all, the old one had been around since 1973.

Maybe they should take a lesson from the Romans. This amphitheater has been open for business since 90 A.D. and seated about 20,000 people. It is a classic design, even if the seats are a little hard.

The facility was used for events featuring gladiators back in the day. Eventually it turned into a small village of sorts, with housing on the floor of the place. That's the way it was used through the 1700s, and in 1825 a movement began to restore it and make it a monument.

The amphitheater is still used for bullfights and plays today. I believe I read that concerts are a little loud for the place now and might cause some damage to the structure of the building.

If you have four minutes to spare, this will give a full tour of the place:



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Arles, France: Place de la République

Here's the center of the city of Arles: Place de la Républiqu.That obelisk in the middle certainly has had its ups and downs over the years. 

The monument dates back to the 4th century, and has no inscription. Constantine II ordered it place there, and that's where it stayed ... until it fell and broke sometime in the sixth century.

But the obelisk wasn't dead yet, in historical terms. The parts were rediscovered in 1389, and the leaders of Arles took almost 300 years to figure out what to do with it. Finally, on March 26, 1676, after a little work, it went back up. 

The square has plenty of activity in it at all times. The attractive Town Hall is in the photo to the right, and a couple of churches are located there too. 

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Arles, France: Garden of the Hospital in Arles

Vincent Van Gogh spent about a year of his life in Arles around 1888. It wasn't a particularly happy time, as his mental health went downhill and his actions became more eccentric.

Finally and famously, he cut off his left ear after a confrontation with Paul Gauguin. Van Gogh headed for the hospital. According to the tour - when asked why he had done such a thing, Van Gogh replied, "For personal reasons."

The artist went to the hospital twice during the next few months. His room overlooked a garden in a courtyard. That's the view that is shown in his painting, "Garden of the Hospital in Arles."

The painting is located in Switzerland now. Meanwhile, the garden looks very much like it did in 1888. You can stand on a particular spot in the edge of the garden, and in theory you could paint a similar piece to the one Van Gogh did more than 130 years ago. A display on the grounds allows you to compare the two views.

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Arles, France: Cafe Van Gogh

Here's another scene of a famous painting by Vincent Van Gogh. This restaurant is located right off the Place du Forum in Arles, and visitors can stand right on the spot where the master went to work.

The building was remodeled in 1990-91 to make it look more like the painting. The piece of art is famous for being the first that Van Gogh included a starry sky. There were more to come of course.

The original painting is in a museum in the Netherlands.

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Arles, France: Place du Forum

All right, if this is the Place du Forum, where's the Roman forum?

Yes, it is gone. But what remains is rather nice.

Taking center stage in the square is Frédéric Mistral. The French writer won the 1904 Nobel Prize for literature. The hat makes him look a little like Colonel Sanders of fried chicken fame (click on the photo to enlarge it), but it's nice to salute a writer this way.

The area is filled with cafes, so it's a natural meeting point for the people of Arles.

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Arles, France: Fontaine Amedee Pichot

This is a nice way to be welcomed into the city of Arles. The fountain was first used in 1887, and it is named after the mayor. According to reports, he paid for the chance to have his own fountain in his city. Nothing like trying to ensure your own legacy.

It's a better piece of architecture than it is a fountain, which doesn't work any more. That makes it worth a stop for a photo.

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Les Baux-de-Provence, France: World War I Memorial

Les Baux-de-Provence is a small village, but that doesn't mean that it didn't make sacrifices at wartime. Those who lost their lives in World War I are remembered here.

The inscription reads: IN MEMORY OF THESE AND
THOSE WHO ARE DEAD EVERYWHERE
IN THE WORLD FOR FRANCE
AND FOR THE DEFENSE OF FREEDOM.

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Les Baux-de-Provence, France: Citadelle des Baux

Rule number one in military school probably is - take the high ground. Such is the case in Les Baux-de-Provence.

A fortress was built in the 11th century (that's about 1,000 years ago, if you are counting) to help defend the area. The place served its purpose; it was frequently attacked durign the next 600 years. The fort was finally destroyed in 1632, but its remains, um, remain. They mix in nicely with the rocky area.

You can pay a fee to look around the grounds and see the views. However, the vistas are similar a few feet away on the mountaintop if that's what you came to photograph and see.

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Les Baux-de-Provence, France: Windmill

You'll have to use your imagination here. This used to be a windmill, way back when. It's on the top of the hill overlooking the area.

The feudal lords owned the windmill, naturally. Therefore, when the locals needed to some windpower to turn wheat into flour, they paid a tax for the use of the windmill.

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Les Baux-de-Provence, France: Charloun Rieu monument

Sometimes you stumble on a monument and have no idea what the significance is. Such was the case during a visit to Les Baux-de-Provence.

At least this one wasn't difficult to track down. It's Charloun Rieu monument, a tribute to a local poet. Rieu was born in 1846. He originally wrote his poetry in French, but eventually changed to the native language of the region, Provencal. Some of his work became well-known in the region, and he translated Homer's Odyssey into Provencal along the way.

This way, he'll always be on top of the hill, overlooking his beloved homeland.

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Les Baux-de-Provence, France: Carrieres de Lumieres

Sometimes you wish you have a better camera.

Carrieres de Lumieres is a unique attraction in the hills of Les Baux-de-Provence, a village in the south of France. The area used to be a quarry. But after a little work to smooth out the walls, it became a place to show massive examples of art work. Therefore, the viewer is more or less surrounded by the images.

During our visit, two demonstrations were staged - one on Van Gogh, the other on Japanese art. It all works quite well, but it's dark in there - as it should be. That makes it tough on the amateur photographer.

Sadly, there was a video of the place... but it has been taken down.

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Avignon, France: Palais des Papes

What the heck is something called "The Palace of Popes" doing in Avignon, France? Did they move it out of Rome?

It's an interesting story, as you'd expect. I can't do it all justice, but I can give you an idea.

While the structure was first built in 1252, the first Pope didn't show up until 1309. Pope Clement wanted no part of the civil strife in Rome that was taking place after his election, and he fled for Avignon - where a bishop's complex was standing.

But that was insufficient for the needs of a Pope, so the complex grew in size during the 1300s. Seven popes lived in Avignon. That situation lasted until 1377, when the home of Popes went back to Rome. But that didn't come without an argument; "anti-popes"- those with a legitimate claim to the job - stayed until 1411.

The building deteriorated a bit after that even though it was in church hands. Then in 1789, it was the site of some damage during the French Revolution. The structure was turned into a stable, which at least meant it would be maintained even if the artwork didn't survive. It became a national museum in 1906.

Now it's a major tourist attraction, among the biggest in France. It comes with a bit of a warning. The space is generally empty. Yes, there are some rooms that survived a bit, and exhibitions are staged in the facility. Still, video screens offer images on what it looked like, as in "The college of cardinals elected Popes in this big, now empty room." It takes some imagination to see how it worked in its day.

You can take a look around in this video:



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Avignon, France: Église St Pierre

It's another piece of real estate that has hosted a church for a long period of time. This one in Avignon goes back to the 600s, even if they started over about three hundred years later.

Major reconstruction took place in 1385, but other actions were taken after that. For example, these fabulous walnut doors turned up in 1551.

By the way, you can describe the inside in one word: dark. I guess they don't want light to fade some of the art work inside.

And yes, it was odd to see a woman with child asking for spare change at the front door of a church. Sad too. 

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Monday, May 20, 2019

Avignon, France: Synagogue

The history of the Jews in Avignon has been a series of ups and downs. They first arrived in the 300s, and had a prominent role in society when the Popes lived there in the 1300s.

However, the situation changed after the French Revolution, when Avignon became part of France. A synagogue was around until 1845, when a fire destroyed it.

A new facility was quickly built to replace it, and it became relatively famous for a quirky reason: It's round. In fact, it's the only round synagogue in France. 

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Avignon, France: Church of Saint-Agricol

This piece of land has been the home of a church since the seventh century. However, the current building only has been around since the 1300s.

It holds the relics of Saint Agricol, the patron saint of the city. This is a rather dark, plain church at least by the standards of this sort of place. But it's still nice in an understated way.

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Avignon, France: Pont Saint-Bénézet

Where did the rest of this bridge go?

It's been gone for quite a while.

This is the Pont Saint-Bénézet, which was built in 1234. The structure had 22 arches, and was a marvel for its time. The problem was that whenever the Rhone's waters were high and powerful, the arches would collapse. The city leaders gave up in the mid-1600s.

But parts of it - include the one shown and the portion on land across the river - still remain. Tourists flock to stand on this ancient landmark.

Some of you may know the song, "Sur le Pont d'Avignon." Yes, this is that bridge. The tune dates back to the middle of the 19th century. Perhaps you can sing along:



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Avignon, France: Monument du Comtat

This monument marks the occasion when Avignon asked to become part of France in 1791. Yes, there's a story there.

It seems that Avignon had been under control of the Pope from 1348 to 1791. Think of it as something like Vatican City. But once the French Revolution came along, Avignon wanted to be part of the fun. It was a little messy, but everything was made official within a few years.

The statue is located along the river; it was moved there in 1974. The monument is something of a nice welcoming symbol to those sailing into town.

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Bollène, France: Ecluse de Bollène

George Marshall, take a bow.

Yes, this is the biggest lock in all of France and the second-biggest in Europe - the Ecluse de Bollène. It is part of an hydroelectric complex that provides plenty of energy for Southern France. By the way, there is a nuclear plant and windmills nearby, so they have most of the options for energy covered here.

It was built shortly after World War II, with the cost covered by the Marshall Plan. The lock is 190 meters long and seven stories high, and so it can handle some major ships.

It takes several minutes to go through this lock, and it's an impressive process - worth a visit to the top of the ship to see it all.

But if you don't have the time to see it that way, here's a quick version:

 

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Viviers, France

Viviers is a cute little village right along the Rhone River in France. It has less than 4,000 people in it, and it obviously has seen better days - which makes it an interesting place to stop on a cruise.

There is a good-sized Old Town in Viviers, and there are buildings with considerable charm as a result. But the population is so small that many of those buildings are suffering from neglect. It's not cheap to keep a 500-year-old structure intact, especially without tenants. It's difficult to keep the young people around, I would guess.

You can see a nuclear power plant from the lawn of the church up on a hill. The power company built a big dock along the riverfront that can handle river cruise ships. I'm not sure how many actually do stay here, but a market popped up in the middle of downtown during our brief stay.

Let's look around a little:

Viviers, France: Viviers Cathedral

Another French town, another old, grand church on a hill. This is the Viviers Cathedral, serving that purpose quite nicely. As you know, the cathedral designation indicates that the area Bishop calls this home.

This Cathedral, named after St. Vincent, goes back almost 1,000 years in spots. Part of the ceiling was destroyed in the 1500s, and the citizens needed a couple of hundred years to fix it. Looks good now, though.

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Vienne, France

Up for a climb? Take one in Vienne and the rewards are many.

A hill called Mount Pipet overlooks the valley carved out by the Rhone, and the walk to it is a steep one. If you have some mobility issues, you might want to look at some sort of other transportation to get there.

But be sure to get there. The view is the finest we had during our trip to France. You can rest up for the trip down by taking a look at the chapel and statue of the Virgin Mary that's on.

Vienne is a rather charming place, located only about 20 minutes from Lyon. 

 

Vienne, France: Antique Theater

In about 25 years, this theater will celebrates its 2,000th birthday. I hope it has a nice party in its honor, because it deserves one. This once held as many as 11,000 Romans when it was built back then.

The Antique Theater was excavated from 1908 to 1938 in Vienne. Officials there decided to put it to good use again, and it is a working performance area to this day. A jazz festival started on the site a little less than 40 years ago.You can pick up a nifty t-shirt from the festival located at the tourist office on the riverfront.

The setting is magnificent. The theater is carved out of the hill behind it to the drop is steep and the views are excellent. For a couple of Euros, tourists can enter the area and take a look. Construction was underway on the seating areas while we were there, so we could only stand on the stage. Even so, that alone was well worth the price of admission.

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Vienne, France: Jardin de Cybele

This is an interesting idea. Ruins of Roman structures are still around in Vienne, but they aren't in great shape. So the good people of the town added some flowers, and made a part out of it.

Some of the work is still standing, and has been identified as a part of a municipal building as well as some residential housing.

This is a nice place for a little walk; the materials that have been around since Roman times provided good company. 

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Vienne, France: Mural

The Roman Temple has hosted a variety of activities over the years. Here's a mural that sums it all up nicely, and its on the way of the municipal theater.

One of the fun parts about this comes when you look carefully. A variety of figures who "played the Temple" are there - including Molière, Berlioz, Jean Dasté, Pierre Schneyder, Miles Davis, Dee Dee Bridgewater (who played Carmen), and Laurent Mourguet. This three-dimensional work is worth a stop.

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Vienne, France: Temple of Augustus and Livia

If you aren't expecting it, this Roman temple can catch a tourist by surprise. It is tucked in the middle of this small town, so you round a corner and there it is.

The building went up about two thousand years ago to honor Augustus and his wife Livia. The rest of the building didn't fare as well as this part, suffering through a fire and possible earthquake. The area was turned into a church for a while, and then a court and library. Finally, it went back to an historical landmark around 1880, and has undergone some renovations to keep looking good since then.

By the way, there is a plaque right across the street that salutes Thomas Jefferson and pays tribute to the idea of good relations between France and the United States.

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Vienne, France: Cathedrale Saint-Maurice

It took a little time for this church to be built in Vienne. We are talking just short of 400 years - around 1130 to 1529.

The site had been used as a church before its construction. In fact, Archbishop Guy was crowned as pope on this spot.

Walk out the front door, and you merely needed to walk down the steps and down a short block to reach the Rhone River. The building technically hasn't been the home of a bishop in some time, but it's still a nice place for a short visit.

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Sunday, May 19, 2019

Lyon, France

Americans are pretty good at memorizing the biggest city/capital of foreign countries. Ask someone about Ecuador, and Quito will pop up right away. They aren't so good about the No. 2 cities.

In France, that city is Lyon - a place that certainly deserves a little love in such matters. It's something like Chicago to Paris' New York/Washington - an interesting place with plenty to do.

Geography obviously played a huge role in the development of this city. The Rhone is the biggest river in France, and the Saone is one of the biggest tributaries. They meet in Lyon, so you can imagine that it was a natural spot for a city to bloom. The peninsula formed by the two of them is called Presqu'ile, and it has some of the city's major shopping areas and biggest public areas. Then there's Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), with many ancient buildings located on the Saone. My guess is that tourists stay rather close to those areas if they are in for a short visit (we certainly did), although there are some attractions outside the region.

The videos usually make a city look fabulous. This one is no exception:



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Lyon, France: Musée des Confluence

The Rhone and the Saone Rivers dramatically come together in Lyon, forming a peninsula of sorts in the city. That seemed like a good place to put up a dramatic building.

By that standard, Lyon succeeded. This Musée des Confluence cuts quite a figure when viewed from the river/rivers. The design is supposed to be a floating crystal cloud. I'll leave it up to your taste about how well it works, but you have to admit it's not a typical office building.

The museum specializes in science and anthropology. The hope is that is revitalizes a district that was quite rundown.

I can't wait to see what the inside looks like.



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Lyon, France: Celestins Theatre

You can't have a European city without an old theater. This one does the job nicely.

The Celestins was named after a religious order that was occupying the space for more than 300 years. That's quite a run, as they say on Broadway.

The facility was turned into a theater and was opened for business in 1792. Napoleon even went there for a show. A new building was needed because of an 1871 fire, and such a facility opened in 1877. It's stood up pretty well since then.

Lyon, France: Place des Jacobins

This square was created in 1556 when the city fathers of Lyon did some urban renewal involving a monks' cemetery. Then in 1856, the fountain was added. It kinds of makes you wonder what's in store for the place in 2156 - although don't give it too much thought.

This is quite a traffic circle as these things go, since 10 streets supposedly lead into it. It's a nice place to walk, but I wouldn't want to drive there. One of the figures at the bottom of the photo, for whatever reason, is carrying a toaster. I'm not sure if this was a short-term gesture that I was lucky enough to see, or it has been there for a while. Either way, take a look for it if you are in the neighborhood someday.

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Lyon, France: "The Weight of Oneself"

This is certainly a striking part of the Saone River's scenery. It was done by Michael Elmgreen & Ingar Dragset, who were based in Berlin.

Here's the catch. The two figures are identical. Maybe it's about man's responsibility to man.

Then again, it's near the city's main courthouse. Is that significant? Are the artists adding something else to the discussion?

I guess that's up to you to decide. "The Weight of Oneself" is right next to a pedestrian bridge in Lyon.

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Lyon, France: Place Bellecour

Most of the big cities of Europe have a large public square that serves as a gathering point. I wish the Americans had done that, as they are always interesting.

This is Lyon's. The Place Bellecour has no frills - no plants and no vehicular traffic. It's just an open square - one of the largest on the continent.

The one feature that is present is a giant statue of Louis XIV, shown here. A tourist office and museum are also part of the complex, but mostly it's open space. They have plenty of room for the ice rink that supposedly is set up in the winter.

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Lyon, France: Roman Theaters

Walking into the hillside area of Lyon is already breathtaking, as it offers a fine view of the two Roman theaters in that city. The story gets even better though.

Experts did some archeological work over the course of 37 years before World War II. They found not only the Grand Theater and the Odean, but the grid of part of a city complete with town squares, streets, homes and shops.

Still, it is the big public gathering spots that attract attention. The Theater dates back to around 15 B.C. That's a few years before Lyon was founded by the Romans, who gave it the name of Gaul. The Odeon was built around 170 A.D., thus becoming the new kid on the block.

Events are still held there, as the modern stage indicates in the photo. A museum, filled with objects from the era, is nearby.

This offers a better look at the area:



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